2020 NEC Surge Protection Device (SPD)

As of January 1, 2021, new homes in Georgia must have Type 1 or Type 2 surge protection devices (SPDs) in order to comply with 2020 NEC updates.

Type 1 SPDs are hardwired, permanently connected SPDs which may be installed on the utility side of the main service overcurrent protective device (i.e. before the main breaker at the service), or they may be installed after the main breaker. Type 1 SPDs are often installed outside at the meter base.

Photo: Leviton

Type 2 SPDs are also hardwired, permanently connected SPDs which must be installed after the main service overcurrent protective device. Type 2 SPDs are typically installed directly to a dual-pole breaker in your panel. These can be integrated SPD breakers or a surface-mounted SPDs wired to standard breakers.

2020 NEC Updates Home Inspectors Should Look For, Part 1

GFCI-protection is now required for all 125–250V receptacles and/or outlets listed here:

  1. Kitchens receptacles installed to serve the countertop surfaces (also #2 & #3 below)
  2. Receptacles within 6 feet of sinks, bathtubs, shower stalls (measured from the top inside edge of the bowl of the sink and the outside edge of a bathtub or shower stall)
  3. Dishwashers
  4. Laundry area receptacles
  5. Sump pumps
  6. Motors for swimming pools, fountains, and similar installations
  7. Pool equipment room receptacles
  8. Finished and Unfinished basement receptacles (Exception: A receptacle supplying only a permanently installed fire alarm or burglar alarm system)
  9. Garage and shed receptacles
  10. Receptacles in indoor damp / wet locations
  11. Crawlspace receptacles and lighting
  12. Outdoors outletsThis includes Outdoor AC/Heat Pump Units up to 50amps (Exception: Lighting and receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated to electric snow-melting, deicing, or pipeline and vessel heating equipment)
  13. The service receptacles that must be within 25 feet of heating, air-conditioning, and refrigeration equipment (Exception: A receptacle outlet shall not be required at one- and two-family dwellings for the service of evaporative coolers)
  14. Receptacles at balcony, deck, or porch within 4 inches of the dwelling unit
  15. Boathouse receptacles and boat hoists

*Exception to (1) through (3), (5) through (8), and (10): Listed locking support and mounting receptacles utilized in combination with compatible attachment fittings installed for the purpose of serving a ceiling luminaire or ceiling fan shall not be required to be ground-fault circuit-interrupter protected. Example:

Photo: SQL Technologies

_________________

Note: While most of these refer to receptacles, some refer to outlets and equipment, which would include hardwired equipment.

16 Questions To Ask a Home Inspector Before, During, and After a Home Inspection

Here’s a good article:
https://www.realtor.com/advice/buy/questions-to-ask-a-home-inspector-and-when/

____________________
Note:

In the last section of the article, Questions to ask a home inspector after the inspection is done, the author suggests clients ask the home inspector how much it will cost to correct various defects. Most home inspectors will simply recommend clients contact local contractors for estimates; however, cost guides, such as this one from Pillar To Post, can be helpful.

AC Current

In a typical American home, there are 3 wires (conductors) coming to the home from the power company’s transformer: 2 hot wires and 1 neutral wire. This is a split single-phase power system, meaning the power company’s transformer has a single-phase input (primary) winding, but the output (secondary) winding is center-tapped to a grounded neutral. This effectively “splits” it into two hot wires (each carrying 120V AC) that are out of phase by 180 degrees with each other. Continue reading “AC Current”

TPR Valve Drain

That little valve at the top, or near the top, of the water heater tank is a Temperature & Pressure-Relief (TPR) valve. This emergency valve, which threads into the water tank, has a thermal element that extends a few inches into the tank so that if the water near the top of the tank hits 210°F, the valve opens releasing hot water until the temperature drops back down to a safe temperature. Likewise, if the pressure in the tank hits 150 PSI, the valve opens, releasing water until the pressure in the tank returns to a safe level. Continue reading “TPR Valve Drain”

Testing AC Systems

Home inspectors have all been taught that AC systems should not be tested when outside temperatures are below 60 Fahrenheit. This is still a good rule of thumb even though some argue most AC systems (standard and heat pumps) now use scroll compressors, so they could be tested at lower temperatures. Nevertheless, I think testing AC systems at temperatures lower than 60 is taking an unnecessary risk; I know I don’t want to buy the homeowner a new compressor. Continue reading “Testing AC Systems”

Drip Leg / Sediment Trap

Every gas water heater and furnace should have a drip leg / sediment trap at the appliance – after the gas shut-off valve.

Now technically a drip leg is not the same as a sediment trap because a drip leg does not require the flow of gas to change direction; however, since most plumbers simply put a T in the line and call it either a drip leg or sediment trap, I’ll use the terms as if they were synonymous. 🙂 Continue reading “Drip Leg / Sediment Trap”

Old House Wiring

Old homes often have ungrounded two-wire conductors carrying electricity throughout the home. (One wire was “hot” and one was “neutral.”) If you see receptacles that only have two slots and are missing the round hole, you can be sure two-wire conductors were used. This older wire isn’t nearly as safe as modern conductors because it lacks a grounding wire to direct electrical current to the ground in the event of a fault. (These faults are usually caused by deteriorated wire insulation.) Without a grounding wire to provide a path for this electricity, a person touching the metal housing of an electrical appliance could be electrocuted. However, in the event of a direct fault (in a grounded receptacle), the current through the ground wire would cause the circuit breaker to trip and the circuit would be de-energized.

So if you have two-wire conductors in your home, what can you do to make your home safer?

Before I address this question, let me point out something that homeowners occasionally do that you SHOULD NOT do: simply replace two-prong receptacles with three-prong receptacles. Doing this only makes your home look safer while in reality, your receptacles are still unsafe because they still lack a grounding wire.

Here are a few options for homeowners:

  1. Have your home completely rewired. An electrician will remove all of the old wiring and replace it with new wiring. As you can imagine, this is very expensive but it will ensure every circuit in your home is grounded.
  2. Replace the first two-prong receptacle on the circuit with a GFCI receptacle and the rest of the receptacles on the circuit with normal three-prong receptacles. (This upstream GFCI-receptacle will provide protection for all downstream receptacles.) Although doing this does not provide a ground, it does make each receptacle safer because now the GFCI-receptacle will instantly trip and de-energize the circuit if it senses the electricity taking a path outside of the intended circuit, such as through a person! It does this by monitoring the current to make sure it is always balanced between the hot and neutral wires. A difference of about 5 mA will cause it to trip.
  3. Replace every two-prong receptacle with a three-prong receptacle and then replace the breaker for that circuit with a GFCI breaker. (This would achieve the same result as option 2, but it would cost more than option 2.)

Not only are the second and third options cheaper than the first option, but they also provide the greatest level of safety for people.

I should mention, options two and three can drive a home inspector nuts!

With the second option, s/he will see a GFCI receptacle, plug in their three-prong receptacle tester and attempt to trip it using the button on the tester, and nothing will happen! They will assume the GFCI receptacle is damaged and should be replaced, but it’s not damaged, just ungrounded. Hopefully before writing up the receptacle as defective and unsafe, they will attempt to trip the GFCI circuitry using the button on the receptacle. Doing this will de-energize the receptacle (and all downstream outlets) letting the inspector know that the receptacles should still be written up as ungrounded receptacles on a GFCI-protected circuit.

Similarly, with the third option, s/he will plug in their three-prong receptacle tester and see that the receptacles have open grounds. They will then need to trip the GFCI breaker in the panel and make sure all of the receptacles that tested as having open grounds are now de-energized. They would still write up the receptacles as ungrounded receptacles on a GFCI-protected circuit.

In a perfect world, ungrounded GFCI receptacles and ungrounded standard receptacles on GFCI-protected circuits would have a stickers on the cover plates specifying that they are ungrounded receptacles with GFCI protection.

______________________

Note: While GFCI-protected outlets will protect people from serious injury, they do not provide surge protection. Surge protection devices (SPDs) protect sensitive electronic equipment, so surge protection should also be used. (Some point-of-use surge protectors only provide protection when they are plugged in to grounded receptacles.)

Expansion tank or expansion valve?

A plumbing system that includes a check valve – backflow preventer, water pressure regulator, etc. – needs to include a thermal expansion device to protect against excess pressure caused by thermal expansion in a closed system. That being the case, should a home owner opt for a thermal expansion tank or a thermal expansion valve?

Continue reading “Expansion tank or expansion valve?”

Design a site like this with WordPress.com
Get started